The Great Wall was certainly a highlight !

If you wish to follow the tour in the sequence in which we did it ; the first entry will now be at the bottom and the last photo is this one of the Great Wall (which is out of place)

It will be interesting to see if you have any comments..... (simply click on the comments tag.)

Hope you gain something out of the description of each region but as usual there is nothing better than seeing it yourself first hand.

Enjoy

Judy and Brian

The Lake at the Summer Palace.

The Summer Palace is on the outskirts of Beijing and was used by the Emperors to escape the summer heat of the Forbidden City.

After School Activities - 14 year old Girls learning Music

Some General Comments and Observations from our Trip

The quality of the hotels was very high, all being clean and with good facilities. At every hotel except Beijing we had double beds, even though we were warned in advance that this was unlikely. All had bar fridges, and most a lockable safe.
Staff in hotels and restaurants, and the people in general, were friendly and helpful. We felt welcome everywhere we went.
Many places had imported wines which were very expensive. Local wine (in particular the Great Wall label) was acceptable and cheap. Local beer was very good.
The food was of an excellent standard, although a roast dinner and a steak on our return were more eagerly anticipated as the time for our return drew nearer.
In Shanghai, I could not find the list of restaurants I had been given as recommendations before we left home. So using the brochure from Travel Indochina and our own sleuthing, we ate at Heaven on Earth (very good), 1931 Cafe and Bar (poor), Merrylin (close to our hotel, a wonderful find, cheap, mostly Chinese diners, excellent food with English translations and pictures, and local inexpensive wine), and M on the Bund (Western food, too much meat and few vegetables, expensive, but great views)
Planning of the Infrastructure which will be required in future is well under way, with projects being undertaken well in advance of the need. Money for these projects is no problem, nor is permission required or politics involved which differs vastly from any major development project in Australia.
Our 4 guides varied in skill and personality, although the last two were excellent. Their spoken English was first class, all majoring at the tertiary level in English.
Seeing what is happening in China makes me wonder whether we all should be learning Mandarin. Perhaps the US, Europe and Australia will be the third world countries in future with heavy debt to China which will hold the world's wealth!
Where was our favourite place/area? Hard to say, but the one place to which we would return immediately is Yangshuo.
Witnessing the one-child policy in action, and in particular the Children's Palace, one can't help but wonder what society will be like in 30 or 40 years' time. With all those spoilt children (we saw them everywhere, and it was fairly obvious), what will the leaders/businessmen/executives be like then? The Chinese natural politeness and desire to "save face" may not remain in future as the youngsters become (perhaps) the selfish and self-interested middle aged. Time will tell.
In summary - a great trip, Travel Indochina designed an excellent range of activities for the itinerary, and our travels were trouble-free. Fifteen days was about the right time for the locations which were included - any less would mean the inability to include Guilin and Yangshou which were our favourite scenery.

Shanghai Friday April 13

Today we travelled by bus and then took a rickshaw ride to the Chinese Old Quarter, wandering amongst the small streets and markets where the locals buy their fresh food supplies. Homemade noodles and steaming buns are for sale, but most stalls sell fresh produce and herbs, beans, and spices. The array of enticing vegetables was vast - most of them we have here or at least can buy at a Chinese grocer or market, but there were a few which we had not seen before. There were also live eels, frogs, and various different kinds of fish, all still swimming. One interesting stall was selling live Rhode Island Red Fowls (fully grown), still alive with their feet tied together. Once the purchaser has selected the preferred bird, it is weighed and its throat cut with a razor blade and passed to the assistant to complete the process of preparing it for the pot. It doesn't come fresher than that!!
Next was a local bird and flower market, including also plants in pots. The birds are in cages, but the market also sells a wide range of other "pets" to purchase - crickets, cicadas, miniature tortoises, and tiny insects in a plastic box to put in your pocket for good luck (that superstition/spiritualism again!!)
A visit to a "Children's Palace" school (commercially run) which provides extra-curricular lessons for students was an eye-opener. Because competition in China is so high, parents with the financial resources to do so enrol their children for creative courses which run seven days per week outside school hours. Activities include painting, calligraphy, opera, drama, chess, music, piano, musical instruments, and traditional Chinese instruments. Some of the creations we saw were of an extremely high standard, and the performance by four 14-year old girls playing traditional instruments was of an astonishingly high standard and played with a passion which we do not seem to see in our children. One 14-year girl stated that she had been learning the instrument for more than 8 years. It seems that there is basically very little time for these children to do anything else other than study and aim to achieve - there is little or no "playtime" or socializing time in their weekly program. Some of the mothers even attend the classes with the child for encouragement and supervision - usually between 3 and 5 times per week.
Our trip now over, we flew by Dragon Air (wonderful airline) to HK, where we had a very short overnight sleep and caught an early morning Qantas flight home.

The Yu Garden in Shanghai

The Yu Garden is in the "Old Quarter" of Shanghai and well worth a look.

Zhujiajiao Thursday April 12

Try as we might, we cannot manage to pronounce the name of this little "water-town" correctly! Bus out from Shanghai to this traditional water canal town dating back to the Ming and Qing dynasties - more than 1,000 years old. The buildings are very very old, and many dangerously in need of maintenance or restructure. The canal runs through the town, with 36 arched stone bridges crossing it. There are oar-driven boats manned along the canal, one of which we took for a short distance. The water was foul - falling in would most likely result in death from a cause other than drowning! Like in other areas of China, many houses and small shops have a singing bird in a cage hanging outside - they call to each other and create a delightful happy background music for those strolling along the canal.
Our guide arranged lunch for us at a small restaurant, with local favourite dishes prepared for our group - lotus root, roasted bamboo shoots, slow-cooked beef in a wonderful sauce, cucumber salad, bok choy, rice, and a delicious pork dish which seemed to be the flesh from the knuckle of pork, flavoured, wrapped in lotus leaves, and simmered for a long time in a liquid. Absolutely mouth-watering and unlike anything ever tasted before. Chinese tea washed down the gourmet feast.
We then visited something which has only been open for about 8 months, and the first time IndoChina tours included the stop in their itinerary. It is the "Propoganda Poster Art Centre" - a private collection of posters made during Mao's regime between 1949 and 1975. The posters, arranged in historical order, portray vividly the tumultuous period of the cultural Revolution, with a high proportion showing Mao and his "army" gallantly defeating the US "imperialist army" (the American figures were very small, usually in the lower right-hand corner of the poster, with $ signs on their hats or clothing and "US" obviously emblazened). The US figures were shown in pain, with ugly faces, and one even showed the US figure dangling from ropes tied around his limbs and body. A whole generation of people were obviously subjected to this propoganda on buildings and walls around China. There were also examples of large pieces of paper covered with Chinese writing, and alterations/comments overwritten which were located on walls and public places. These were examples of the common practice of "dobbing" friends, relatives and neighbours, as being against Mao's "visionary" views.
I'm unsure if this is accurate (told by our guide, E & OE!!), but during the "Great Leap Forward" last 10 years of Mao's influence, no schools operated, no-one worked, books were burnt, scholars and literaries were pursued, and the whole country came to a miserable standstill in fear and hatred of each other.
Some of the signs in English we have seen throughout China are a little humorous because of the translation, even though the message is clear. eg "Relic Protected, No Scratch".

A relaxing walk through the "Old Quarter"

Shanghai Wednesday April 11

Walked along the Bund with the guide giving us good information about the history of this part of the city. This was formerly Shanghai's "Wall Street". Shanghai is a very much younger city than other areas of China, with no buildings dating back to earlier dynasties. Bus took us to the "Old Chinese Quarter" and visited the very relaxing Yu Garden which is a peaceful oasis in this bustling city.
Shanghai is almost a "sister-city" geographically (but not climatically) to Melbourne, having a very similar latitude and longitude but in the northern hemisphere.
Then the Shanghai Museum - renowned world-wide and recommended to us by many as a place not to miss. There are four floors of exhibits, each with an impressive collection of ancient bronze works, stone statues, ceramics, calligraphy, paintings, coins, Qing and Ming furniture, jade, ethnic minority costumes and masks (the latter were fascinating and contained the most beautiful hand-done threadwork). There was not time to do the museum justice, so a return visit would be worthwhile. Toilets are 5-star plus!! We actually went to Pizza Hut for lunch, because we could not find a suitable Chinese restaurant nearby. What a shock after wonderful Chinese cuisine!
Warning from our excellent guide - taxis are fine and cheap, but under no circumstances should one take a red taxi. Avoid at all costs - not registered, no meters or meters not turned on, devious route-taking, and arguments about the fare at the destination if you make it there.
The city is on countdown to the 2010 World Expo, with everyone excited at the prospect of showing off their headline city to other countries. A whole new complex is to be constructed for the Expo, on land which is vacant now. The Urban Planning Exhibition Hall was a similar display to the one we saw in Beijing - fascinating to see the scale-model existing buildings, buildings under construction, and those still in the planning stage. Well worth a visit to this centre, which also contained engineer's drawings of some of the proposed constructions for the 2010 Expo.
Established today that if the first-born child is actually twins, then the couple are not penalised under the one-child policy!!

The Highest Building in the World at 110 Floors.

This building is being completed for the Expo in Shanghai in 2010 but will be finished in time for the Olympic games at Beijing 2008. Another building in Dubai will soon take over the crown as the highest building in the world, being 300 metres taller, making it 800 metres high. I took this shot from the Jinmao Tower and could focus in on the three workman walking along the steel beam at the top just as if they were walking along the footpath some 500 Metres below!!

Shanghai - "Pearl of the Orient" Television Tower

Yangshuo to Shanghai Monday April 9

Tai Chi lesson for the group by the trainer of the National Tai Chi Team. We felt silly really, although the expertise of the teacher shows that she has been practicing for more than 40 years. Very difficult to get the movements right (particularly the hands), and much too slow for those of us who like to move to music!
Bus back to Guilin to catch a Shanghai Airlines flight to Shanghai, the city known as "the Pearl of the Orient". Depending on where you stop counting, populatoin is 18m. The best word I can think of to describe the flavour of the city is that it "zings". Shanghai has emerged from the cultural revolution as a cosmopolitan, dynamic, modern, sophisticated, industrial and commercial centre which shows strong evidence of the European occupants and its trading significance prior to 1949. In previous times it was renowned for being a "naughty city", with gambling, brothels, and a "glittering array of sinners". The language spoken here is different from anywhere else in China, and is difficult for those living elsewhere to understand.
The river divides the city into two parts - the older part and the new "Pudong" in the East which only 20 years ago was farmland. Until 1995, there were no high-rise buildings - now there are 3,000+ high-rise buildings in Shanghai which are more than 20 stories high. Pudong is now the commercial centre of Shanghai, with the West side of the river containing the area called "The Bund" which has European style buildings fronting the river which were originally banks, commercial buildings, etc before Pudong took over. These buildings now house shops, restaurants, and hotels.
There is a bridge close to the Bund, which was originally built in timber across the river by an Englishman. He charged everyone to cross it apart from the English!! The locals were incensed by this action, and later tore it down and replaced it with a symbolic metal bridge which was free for all. It still stands as an example of the Chinese spirit, and is still used.
Nanjing Road is a major road running through the city, which has 5 km of shopping! One main section is pedestrian only, lined by multi-storey shops and department stores on both sides.
The traffic moves very slowly during peak hours (7.00 - 11.00 am and 3.00 - 8.00 pm), in spite of multi-lane and multi-level roads. Outside these hours, it is not too bad, and the road system excellent. No trucks are allowed inside the city limits between 7.00 am and 9.00 pm - (Melbourne take note!!)

Yangshou and a Limestone Landscape

Judy heading out into the Yangshou countryside

Bamboo boats on the Li River (Hired by the Tourists)

Two of the boats meandering along the Li River

Yangshuo Monday April 9

Exciting day today. Rode bicycles through the beautiful countryside for about 1.5 hours, along wet gravel roads, past massive potholes filled with water, and in some sections large gravel stones and rocks which created a full body massage effect at the same time as teeth-chattering! Two of the party went by golf-cart, and Judy (fortunately not a bicycle or she would have ended up in a deep mud-puddle) rode an electric bike which she managed very well except for crossing a six-lane busy road in the city with no lights, no traffic controls, several roads coming into the one location, and little expertise in control. Heart in mouth and eyes shut, we all came out the other side of the city intersections unscathed.
The rural countryside was a delight - paddy fields, working buffalo, hens, lotus fields, fish farms, and men making the long bamboo rafts used on the river for tourist trips. At our destination of a small village, we had a "famer's lunch" at the local farmers' co-operative where they and their families worked and cooked local produce. The food was fresh, delicious, and contained very little in the way of sauces because the freshness of the food did not warrant additional flavours.
Speaking of food, everything we have eaten has been delicious and most unlike Chinese food as we know it in Australia. But things we have seen on menus (and not eaten) include piegs' ears, frog stew, duck's tongues, pork stomach, fish head, pig's feet, and would you believe pig's penis!

Yangshuo Sunday April 8

Have finally learnt the secret of how to tell street sellers to go away without causing them loss of face. If you say "NO" or "ONLY LOOKING" or just ignore them, they stick like glue and persist. It becomes quite annoying after a while, although they are always friendly and smiling. The words to say are pronounced "BOO YOW" which translates to "Don't Want". It works every time!!
This morning we travelled in a ferry-like boat along the Li (pronounced LIE) river to Yangshuo, which was our favourite place for scenery. Fifty boats depart every morning for the four-hour journey (some at 9.00 am and some at 9.30 am), each carrying about 100 people. It feels like a pilgrimage with the boats following each other in single file. The river flows through lush green rice paddies, surrounded by magical mountains souring on either side of the water. As we rounded one corner, the view was precisely as per the photograph on a Yuan currency note.
The city of Yangshuo is beautiful, and wherever you look there is a backdrop of the soaring peaks of the limestone mountains shrouded in mist. The hotel gardens were very attractive, with a very pretty lake right outside our hotel window. There is a "market street" running through the town, with friendly shopkeepers selling a wide range of both useful items and tourist trinkets. The streets are cobblestoned, and the general atmosphere relaxed and stress-free.
At night we attended an amazing production close by. A light and sound show, all outdoors on the water, directed by Zhang Yi Mou of "Hidden Dragon, Sleeping Tiger" fame in conjunction with Stephen Spielberg. It is called "Impression San Jie Liu", staged by local villagers and fishermen, with the towering peaks forming a backdrop and from time to time lit by spotlights from the show. It is impossible to explain in writing how brilliant this show was, how wonderfully designed and executed, and how entertaining it was. Hundreds of people were involved in the production, appearing to float on water whilst lit by hand-held flaming torches, and various coloured spotlights. The show has been running for about two years, and is likely to run for a very long time to come because of its popularity with visitors from all over China and other countries of the world.

Lunch at Longsheng and a "walk" up the mountain !

The Army of Terracotta Warriors

Guilin Saturday April 7

Guilin is surrounded by the most astonishing countryside. Towering limestone mountains with vertical faces, vegetation clinging to the rock where it can. The humidity is very high most of the time, and the air very misty making photos appear as if taken through a filter. A winding bus trip to a very high elevation took us to a village with houses on wooden stilts where local tribes (Yao and Zhuang) lived. Along the route we passed many duck farms and buffalo-drawn ploughs. Climbed on foot to the very high rice terraces, the area known as "Dragon's Backbone". Lazy, fat, disabled, or unfit visitors can pay to be taken to the top in a "chair" being carried by two men holding the bamboo poles.
The Zhuang men prefer women with large mouths, large feet, and small hands. Each is important for a different reason.
The flight to Guilin was by China Eastern Airlines, with a slightly unnerving departure wish of "Have a good fright!!". The back of the seat covers had the word "Pompei" embroidered into the white cotton!
For lunch we enjoyed a new gastronomic experience - "bamboo rice" which was cooked over an open fire inside a bamboo stip about 6cm in diameter. Also discovered a new dried fruit - "No flower fruit" which tastes and looks very much like a tiny fig with a harder casing. Delicious.
Primary school is compulsory as is Middle School ie 9 years altogether. This education is free. Senior School and University involves cost and is not compulsory. The school day runs from 8.00 am to 12.00 noon, then 2.00 pm to 5.30 pm. The break is for lunch and a nap.
The streets everywhere are unbelievably spotless. It is not unusual to see a man or woman in the middle of a four-lane expressway, sweeping the road by hand with a broom and spade on a long handle. They all seem to take pride in cleanliness of the footpaths, streets, and roads.

The Bell Tower from Hotel in Xian

Xian Friday April 6

This morning we visited a large city park, where children and elderly people were out doing their morning exercises. The number of people was astonishing, with a bias to elderly retired people. Every group had a CD player, playing different music to accompany their activities. There was badminton-type bats and balls, choirs, tai chi with swords, calligraphy, ballroom dancing (Western style), and a challenging game of "soccer" using a feathered weight with feet only. It was a delight to see them enjoying themselves so much in the fresh air and sunshine undertaking healthy exercise.
Then a bus trip to the Terracotta Warriors - an amazing discovery made in 1974 but dating back 2000 years. Each figure is unique, with different body positions and facial expressions and clothed according to their rank. Figures of men and horses are lifesize, and still in their positions underground as they were found and the broken ones still in the process of matching parts and assembling into a complete figure. They were originally painted in colour, and many of the weapons were encrusted with jewels. The main pit is covered by a building nearly as large as the MCG, open every day, and after close the archeologists and their teams work under lights with torches and brushes painstakingly undertaking the ongoing delicate recovery of the figures still buried. The warriors were designed to defend Emperor Qin Shi Huang's tomb and ensure that he would have an army to protect him in the afterlife (and presumably also to show a continuation of his power and strength even after death). The "army" work began when he was quite young, and continued for more than 70 years (his tomb is 1.5 km away, although his remains may even be located elsewhere with the tomb being a decoy). It is believed that the surviving workers (about 750,000 worked on the project over his lifetime) were buried alive with him to protect the secret of the construction. Many archeologists think that the 6,000 warriors discovered so far could be only part of an even larger army buried in vaults around the tomb.
The farmer who was digging the well and discovered part of a warrior is still alive - now in his 80's. He is very famous, and still spends some time at the site. If he is present, and you purchase a book, he will autograph it for you in Mandarin. We saw him the day we visited.
Flight to Quilin.

Xian Thursday April 5

The overnight train trip was a very interesting experience. "Soft" refers to the fact that the seats/single beds have mattresses, not wooden seats. Each cabin contained 4 berths, two on top and two below. Our cabin was shared by a man on the top bunk who presumably arrived after we were both asleep. He leapt to a waking state when Judy slithered down from the top bunk in the middle of the night and collided with his legs/feet which were protruding from the bunk! Departure from the Beijing railway station was a nightmare - all luggage had to be put through a scanning station like at the airport, but the queue of people was about 6 wide with a bottleneck pushing and shoving to get their luggage in and collect it at the other end. One of our party was jostled and fell over her bag, and we were all concerned for the security of our passports and other VIP stuff. It was a relief to be on the train and to find that each bed had clean white linen and a clean covered doona and pillow each. We all had a nightcap of Great Wall white wine in our cabin to celebrate our safe embarkation and to prepare for the long night ahead.
Xian means "Western Peace", was previously the capital city, and was the starting point for the Silk Road. Our hotel looked out over the "Bell Tower", located in the centre of a very wide roundabout. Fascinating to watch heavy traffic wind its way around and peel off the circuit, crossing several lanes in the process. No accidents observed. There was a McDonald's large umbrella planted in the roadway, for the policeman on duty to shelter from the sun or rain!
Visited the big "Wild Goose Pagoda", built in 652 AD and 7 levels high. Damaged by earthquake much later which means the construction now lists about 7 degrees off-centre.
Then a lesson on how to judge the quality/value of jade.
Followed by a Feng Shui lesson - architectural design and furnishing etc. Whether you believe in this stuff or not, it is still interesting to learn how important it can be in the design and construction of even major buildings - sometimes in a consulting capacity for overseas Western countries.
A "Dragon Horse" outside or just inside a building or home, pointing outside, keeps money and good things inside! Cute shape, with high arched hindquarters - wish we had purchased one to bring home because of its attractive shape.
There are 56 ethnic groups in China, 90% of which are the HAN. China's one-child policy does not apply to the minority ethnic groups, nor does it to the HAN if an only child marries an only child in which case they are allowed two.
At night we had a dumpling banquet, followed by a dance and music show which dated from the Tang Dynasty.
Xian was very smoggy whilst there, and difficult to take good photos.

We attack the "Great Wall"

Hong Kong

Saturday April 14
We have tried everywhere - at every hotel at which we stayed, and also two Internet Cafes plus every airport, but have been unable to access the webpage at any of them. We are now in HK at the airport hotel, where we have a short sleep and then fly home tomorrow morning. At last we can access the blog in the hotel! It is really disappointing that it has not been possible to post updates and observations as we travelled, but we could not do anything about it. I have made copious notes and jottings along the way of things to share with you all, and promise to post text over the next few days when back in Melbourne. So if you want to catch our impressions and interesting and/or funny experiences and information from our really interesting travels, then check the blog over the next few days. I may need to do this over several days and then finish the entries next weekend when there is some free time. It has been a wonderful trip, and we have much to share with those who are interested.
Love to all, and thanks to those who thought of us and left comments for us to read. It is always good to have contact with home when in strange places so far away.
p.s. Happy Birthday to Donald for today.

Tuesday April 3 Beijing
Every day so far has been sunny with clear blue skies - no sign of the smog we anticipated. Visited a Chinese medical clinic, which undertakes diagnostics (US trained doctor) by feeling the pulse and checking the tongue! Had a foot massage and diagnosed basically healthy. Chinese medicines available at very high prices!
Found out why there are no trucks or lorries - they are banned from the city between 7.00 am and 9.00 pm.
The Temple of Heaven was as beautiful and gleaming in the sun as we had anticipated. It was destroyed by lightning a long time ago, and not repaired until the 20th century over a period of more than 30 years. Completed 2006. Constructed without nails or concrete, all timber and 38 metres high gleaming with gold and painted bright blue. The emperor used this temple to ask his God to deliver a good harvest, with associated ceremony, sacrifices, etc. To get to the temple, we walked through a huge park which was filled with mostly older people dancing, singing, playing cards, kicking featered weights to each other, exercise with a light bat similar to a tabletennis bat and a soft ball. It was a delight to see so many people so happy and agile, and enjoying exercise in the sun and having fun. Apparently retired people are able to purchase a year-long entry to any park with a price of only100 yuan (about $15.00).
Everyone wears trousers - male, female, locals, and tourists. Apart from staff in the hotel, we have only seen three skirts and one of those was an Indian costume!
Beer and local wine are very good, if you can find the supermarket! Also quite cheap.
We were taken to the Underground City, built as protection from bombing by the Russians over the period 1969 to 1979. Tunnels are 2m wide and 3 metres high, and extend for over 6,000 km. Some sections are more than 7 metres deep. Could hold up to 5m people.
Next was a silk factory, with a lesson on silk worms and spinning, plus a shop of course to make purchases. We succumbed to a silk quilt (ie a doona) which is supposedly the best for all seasons. Also a couple of little silk number for Judy of course!
The afternoon was devoted to an artist's demonstration of water painting freestyle in the Chinese style, and Chinese calligraphy. Our attempts were pathetic - it is much harder than it looks. Good fun, and we will bring home our attempts for you to express your derision!
Our Peking duck dinner commenced at 5.30 pm in a private room. A delicious meal which incorporated every part of the duck in various different dishes, plus vegetables and everything else imaginable. Great night.
The guide must not eat at normal times - we need to consider our own welfare, by requesting "what will we be doing for lunch?" One day she expressed surprise that we had not brought along a packed lunch with us (where from??) She also has a distorted view of times - a trip which she said would take 1 hour in fact took 10 mins, and if she says 10 mins it might be as much as 45 mins!!
Like so many other countries/cities, the street sellers are a pain - Rolex watches, hats, scarves, dolls, toys, books, postcards, etc. Brian purchased a book on Beijing, which started with a price of 350 yuan, and he finally paid 20 yuan ($3.00) after lengthy negotiation.
People are on the whole friendly and helpful. Everyone seems to be industrious and hardworking, and we have only seen a handful of beggars on the streets. Uniforms abound. The army is obvious (green uniforms) and police also (navy blue uniforms). On most street corners there are Tourist Police in grey uniforms - community men who are paid to ensure tourists are safe and locals behave appropriately. Street cleaners on foot are everywhere, and the streets and pavements are spotless.
Our hotel hot water tap has a sign to state that it comes from a hot spring. Does this explain the extreme variation in temperature during a shower??
We may not be able to access the Internet for a couple of days - will try. Today we check out at noon, spend the afternoon on a boat to visit the Summer Palace of the emperors, (dinner unknown or maybe non-existent??) then to the Beijing Railway Station to catch our "First Class Soft Sleeper" compartment for an overnight trip to Xian. (we are intrigued to know what "soft" means)
More soon

Melbourne - Beijing

Friday 30 - Saturday 31 March
Good flights, but not much sleep. Second leg with Dragonair was luxury, with three attendants just for us. Breakfast involved several courses, and seats and service were excellent.
Beijing
First impressions from the air were of very flat land, and very dusty with a dust storm. No visible trees or greenery. Airport is huge, and service very good. Travel to hotel by car, and the construction activity observed is enormous. Cranes, workers, excavators and piles of dirt everywhere. At first glance it appears to be like any other city in the world apart from the construction work. Cars and buses, with some bikes, but no motor bikes or trucks on the road.
Hotel Novotel is very modern, but service not up to scratch. Spoken English also difficult to follow - "den block" translates to "10th floor".
There are 5 people in our group - a couple and a single lady from UK, and of course the driver and "local guide".
Sunday April 1 Beijing
Full day today. Walked through Tiananmen Square, and then through the Forbidden City (emperor's quarters for over 500 years, and home to Ming and Quing dynasties). Public toilets are readily available, all "squat" type, and designated with a star. A 4-star is clean but has no toilet paper! The Emporer's garden was the highlight of the Forbidden City - some trees over 500 years old, with the high branches propped up with 3m or longer timber poles (we have seen a lot of this, and also rope wound around trunks to protect it from the cold and also for support). The lack of trees or grass in the Emporer's city was to ensure that no-one could hide and present a safety risk. The base of the main courtyard consisted of 15 layers of bricks laid criss-cross, so no-one could dig a tunnel under the wall and obtain access to his quarters, his empress, and his 1,000 concubines!
Then to a traditional Tea House (also a shop) for a Tea Ceremony and tasting. Lunch at a family home in a Hutong area (low rise, very old, narrow lanes, community toilets, family living). Served a delicious lunch by the lady of the house - 10 courses all fresh and home cooked. Rickshaw ride to the Drum Tower and climbed 69 very high and steep steps. Opposite is a bell tower - long ago when there were no clocks or watches, the bell was rung to wake everyone up, and the drums were beaten to tell them to stop work. The tower holds what is stated as the largest drum in the world.
Then to a show to see the world famous Chinese acrobats, which was excellent. From there by car to Wangfujing food street, where there is an amazing stretch more than 100 metres long of fresh and varied foodstuffs (soups, meats, vegetables, fruits, including the most unusual items - insects, snakes, sand worms, kidneys, in addition to skewered pork, dumplings, prawns and wraps). Great place to eat if you don't want to sit down or have a wine with your meal.

April 2 Great Wall of China
Today was a full-day trip, 90k to the base of the Wall which receives less visitors than one closer to Beijing. We did not expect the number of hawkers and their shops at the base of the Cable Car which took us to the wall itself. Amazing structure, which just seems to go on forever. Very high off the ground and quite high walls, with no level sections that we could see. It is quite wide, designed to take 4 - 5 horses side by side. Views are of craggy inhospitable countryside, mountains, and barren partly because the deciduous trees have no leaves yet. The steps are either very low and narrow (presumably for horses) or extremely steep and deep which are hard work for the legs.
Interesting report from our guide. Three generations ago, if a man wanted to be able to marry a girl he needed to have three things - a bicycle, a watch and a sewing machine. The next generation needed a black and white TV, an ice box, and a washing machine. For the current generation, it is now a car, mother must have a good house, and he must have a good job. How times have changed.
There are 3 young women for every 5 young men in China now.
This is an exciting and developing country, and we are looking forward to seeing more of it.